Harissa

Preparation

1. 1

   If using dried red chilies (the traditional version), soak them in hot water for 20 minutes to rehydrate, then drain and remove the stems and some of the seeds depending on how spicy you want it.

2. 2

   If starting with fresh chilies, partially deseed them (the seeds concentrate the heat) and roughly chop.

3. 3

   Blend the chilies with the peeled garlic, cumin and a generous pinch of coarse salt, until you get a slightly coarse paste (not fully smooth, to keep some texture).

4. 4

   Add the olive oil little by little, pulsing as you would for a mayonnaise, until you get a glossy, smooth paste.

5. 5

   Taste carefully and adjust the salt.

6. 6

   Spoon the harissa into a small, clean sterilized jar, pack it down to remove air bubbles, then cover the surface with a layer of olive oil: this protective film prevents oxidation and mold.

7. 7

   Let it rest for at least 24 hours in the fridge before using — the flavors meld and the heat mellows slightly.

8. 8

   Keeps for 3 to 4 weeks in the fridge, as long as you re-form an oil film on top after each use.